Over Easy

There are obviously dollar bills to be made off of breakfast in 2007. Every time I open the Reader it seems like someone’s opening a new fancypants joint that specializes in egg dishes or French toast. This is a fortunate arrangement for gluttons like us, as we are typically willing–nay, compelled–to exchange American currency for delicious eats shortly after waking. Too bad we don’t all have this guy’s life.

A kindred soul.

Having no one to bring us cow-pie pancakes with cloth napkins in bed, we rely instead on the the M. Henrys and Oranges of the world to cook us breakfast. This is not a bad arrangement. In fact, I’d say we win most of the time. Bacon tastes better than a fistful of singles any day of the week.

So, last week, in need of early nourishment, we hopped to Over Easy, a breakfast joint near Winnemac Park that opened a few years ago, burned down, and reopened again this past year. It looks like the kind of place that has roasted red pepper in at least two dishes: small storefront space, brightly colored decor, clever breakfast reference in name, 30-something patrons. And indeed it is that kind of place. We were seated at a bright window table, where we were immediately served Julius Meinl coffee and fresh-squeezed juices. I tried the Freckled OJ, which consists of orange juice blended (mixed?) with strawberries. ‘Shit was true, friends. Fresh, and not overly berried. OE also offers a Blackeye OJ, which is the same thing except with blackberries. I’ve a bit of a beverage fetish so I ordered the grapefruit juice just to try it, which turned out to be a well-played move on my part. In the same way Cholula on the table makes any meal tolerable, fresh juices increase a dining experience by a factor of at least 7.4, which also happens to be the number of times I’ve unsnapped my pants in a public place because I overate. (Anyone who’s ever tried to encourage third base by example knows what a .4 unsnap is.)

Freckled OJ, aka Whitey

Over Easy’s breakfast menu is standard for contemporary American brunch. It’s mostly twists on classic egg dishes, with ingredients like avocados and chilies adding the twists. The three of us ordered from the savory side of the menu ’cause it was that kind of afternoon, but the sweet side looked like the winning side with ridiculously delicious-sounding items like banana-spiked French toast and Emily’s Dream Pancakes, with blackberries, orange butter, and raspberry coulis.

We had the jalapeno corncakes with red pepper sauce and the sassy eggs, a chorizo-hash combination with eggs, quacamole, cheese, ancho sauce, and sour cream. Both were excellent.

Top, the cakes. Bottom, Los Huevos de Sassy.

To prove our voracity, we ordered an extra entree so we could sample the sweet side. Maybe a bit extravagant, but that’s just how gluttons get it done. We take breakfast real slow like, bend her over easy, and then whale the living shit out of her. At least Rin Rin does. She’s raw like that.

We forgot the ingredients of this cranberry French toast but fuck it was tasty.

Overall, Over Easy was very solid. There’s nothing on the menu that separates it from all the other contemporary American brunch joints in the city but if I lived anywhere near the neighborhood I’m sure I’d eat there several times a month.